The Answer
The Short Answer
For decades 'a 60-watt bulb' was shorthand for a certain brightness, because incandescent bulbs of a given wattage always produced roughly the same light. LEDs changed that: they create the same brightness from a fraction of the power. So watts no longer tell you how bright a bulb is — lumens do. Buy by lumens for the light you want, and treat low wattage as the bonus that lowers your bill.
The Full Explanation
The Conversion You Actually Need
Use lumens as your target: 450 lumens replaces an old 40W bulb, 800 lumens a 60W, 1,100 lumens a 75W, and 1,600 lumens a 100W. A modern LED hits those figures at roughly 5W, 8–10W, 11–13W and 14–18W respectively — and ultra-efficient models go lower still. So when a package says '60W equivalent', what matters is the lumen figure printed alongside it.
Why Watts Still Matter (a Bit)
Watts haven't become useless — they now tell you about efficiency and running cost rather than brightness. Between two bulbs of equal lumens, the lower-wattage one costs less to run. The measure that ties them together is efficacy (lumens per watt): basic LEDs deliver around 80–100 lm/W, while the most efficient A-rated bulbs exceed 150 lm/W. Higher efficacy means the same light for less money.
How to Shop in Practice
Decide how bright the space needs to be in lumens (e.g. a living room wants 1,500–3,000 lumens total across its fittings), then buy bulbs that add up to that figure. Ignore the big 'equivalent watt' marketing number and read the actual lumens. Only compare the real wattage when two bulbs match on lumens and colour, to see which is cheaper to run over time.
Related Questions
Sources
- 1Light Bulbs
ENERGY STAR
- 2LED Lighting
U.S. Department of Energy
- 3IES Standards
Illuminating Engineering Society